Chris Laborde Twings and Things

-Used one continuous line for both twings. By doing this I saved about 4' of extra line in bottom of boat and with no ends it is harder to have really bad knots develop, but the jury is still out if it is worth it. The crew sometimes steps on the twing line and keeps one of the twings from flying away from the boat and sometimes makes it hard on the middle.

-Used a 1/2 X 1/2 x 3/32 cheap aluminum angle piece to make the cheek block bracket. Should have used smaller cheek blocks, but had those as scraps.

-Shows the line diameter that I have been using in all conditions (Twings don't seem to be too heavily loaded in serious breeze)-Used one continuous line for both twings. By doing this I saved about 4' of extra line in bottom of boat and with no ends it is harder to have really bad knots develop, but the jury is still out if it is worth it. The crew sometimes steps on the twing line and keeps one of the twings from flying away from the boat and sometimes makes it hard on the middle.

-Shows the line diameter that I have been using in all conditions (Twings don't seem to be too heavily loaded in serious breeze) -Shows location of twings (I drilled out the holes for the hook through bolt and press fit a deck fitting. -I drilled the bottom of the blocks I used for the twings to get them a little lower so the knot would increase the height too much. (Can probably avoid this by putting a bigger hole in rail, but that has it's own problems.)

-This downhaul configuration prevents the pole from skying because it dead-ends before that point (I found this on Jim Kincaid's boat) -a really basic plastimo compass mount with a large hose clamps -turning block I use for my main halyard (real handy, I don't have to stand on the main halyard or any of that mess with tight luff cords) -front forward strap dead-end point to (makes hiking a lot more comfortable on the forward, having the straps leave the feet at equal angles keeping their feet from trying to migrate forward. This seems to be very well received. Also being anchored so low in front, the crew can step on them and they go to the floor) (I found this on Blair D. boat).

-Shows how the mast is fibergalssed and epoxied to the tendon at it's base to allow the mast to move between the tendon and base smoothly and contiguously (Jim Kincaid) -Shows how the cloth jib halyard has a knot for the fork so that the forward clew never has to guess at the distance to pull the halyard to. I love this set up, because it allows the crew to think less about halyard placement at critical times and keeps their head's up.(Ron Smith). -Shows the twing ball on the deck that pulls the spinnaker halyard out of the cleat between the stanchions. There is a 4:1 on that purchase and the spinnaker can have a couple hundred pounds on it and come out easy and at the forward crew's decision. (Andy McDonald). -Also shows how an eye-strap was directly mounted into the top of the centerboard for a more direct pull on the board verses at the front of the bracket.

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